The Lowbei Blues: China - I love it I hate it
I think I am finally getting to grips with China. It was really doing us both in - and it's a lot of work I must say - but I think after 3 months I am starting to get the hang of it. Interestingly, asking other travellers what they think of China invariably enlists an ambivalence that I can relate to.
This country is just so bloody LOUD. If I have one word that wraps up China for me, it's 'noise'. The people here really like to make a racket. I was completely ashamed of myself when I pointed this out to a guy we hooked up with named Simon. I was moaning about all the loud shouting pushy types being country bumpkins in the big city (or village) for the first time (and this from a country girl!). Simon rightly pointed out that the country people are the quiet reserved ones, the loud boisterous people are from the city. Anyhow, it can be really nerve racking.
But then it's not like things last long. China is a real early to rise country, which us night people find hard. Buses seem to always leave at 630am (argh!) and the hotels all empty out by dawn (except for us sleepyheads). The maids are always astounded that we want to sleep past 8am. On the upside, no matter where we were or the size of the city, you could hear a pin drop by 11pm!
Meals should be hot and noisy and smoky, with way more food than needed and too much baijo (rice 55% proof alcolhol that I quite like but Chris finds foul). TVs need to be on, always, and hotel room doors should always be open - whether to be friendly or nosy I can never figure out. Lineups are invisible and waiting in turn is incomprehensible. Big 'lowbei' (foreign devils) are for staring at - and not just for a minute but for as long as they are in sight (ideally dropping the mouth open and prodding passerbys to join in). Trains and buses need to rushed onto, with elbows out, and in full panic mode, even though we all have tickets for seats. People - particularly hotel maids at 6am - shout at each other constantly. From 3 feet away. If that. Shouting is just the way to communicate.
Or not. We have met some amazing locals, many of whom want to practise their English and not sell us anything - which is a relief. The way they take care of us is really touching. People who speak a bit of English are always popping up to translate, help buy tickets, to steer us the right way, help negotiate minicab fares, to call our hotels (unsolicited) to make sure we get met or any myriad ways to help us and make us feel welcome. I have often had people ask me with real concern as to whether I like China, or if there is anything they can do to make my visit better. So, so sweet.
Interestingly, just yesterday i met a girl from Ganzhou who was leaving the hotel we were in because it was too noisy. That is the very first time I heard a Chinese person complain about noise. But then, that might have been the first time I heard someone complain!
We sadly have only ten days left on our visa so we need to leave soon, and I look at the map and see just how much more I have yet to discover. It's an amazing country and I have to say I would love to come back. But with earplugs, I think.
